Saturday, July 4, 2009

Pate de Campagne?


I have to admit, I was not sure what this would be when I started. And I'm still not sure. A souse, coppa di testa, sulze. Not really, those are all set in gelatin. Nor really a pate, because it isn't smooth and spreadable. Not that a pate de campagne should be. So there it is. And have to admit, this solid toothsome version is much more interesting than the cream-laden versions one normally sees, covered in bacon. If you want bacon, eat bacon. This one is actually cured pork. Very simply seasoned.
SO, I offer you a recipe! In standard format. Ah me. But technique IS antiquated.
2.5 lbs of boneless pork shoulder, or 4 fatty country ribs.
2 tbs salt
1 tsp coarsely ground pepper
1 tsp thyme or other herb you like, esp. juniper
1 good pinch instacure #1 (pink curing salt)
3 ice cubes
Coarsely chop the pork and pork fat into small nubbins. Add the seasonings. Mix and put in the fridge for 5 days to cure. Then put the mixture into a large mortar and pound the hell out if it for about 15 minutes. Throw in the ice cubes as you go. This is a GREAT upper body workout. I suspect if you kept going with this you would have a smooth bologna. The mixture is very much a sausage mix, with darker, lighter and white fat in a suspension but still separate, which would not work in a grinder or processor. If you have a large beef bung I would stuff it in there. I used a large round porcelain ramekin. Cover it with plastic wrap, and place in a steamer. Steam gently for 40 minutes. Cool and refrigerate at least 24 hours. Slice and serve with mustard, good rye (which I baked yesterday) and cornichons - which alas I had not. You can also slice this very thinly and make sandwiches. The next time I do this I am going to pour in a glug of cognac, or maybe vinegar. Gin would be lovely too.

7 comments:

Syd said...

Dude! That is some tasty looking Spam!

Ken Albala said...

Syd, F UN A! It is HOMEMADE SPAM! Maybe now people will get excited. Put it in a poke salad. Fry it for breakfast. I should have asked you first.

History of Greek Food said...

It looks delicious!! I like the idea of cognac (or maybe Calvados?)!

We Are Never Full said...

ummmmm... ok, can i have a piece?

this is prob. the most simple recipe ever. now i've just gotta make it.

sharon parquette nimtz said...

Ken, that looks wonderful. Now I wonder if you have the same kind of textury technique for liverwurst. I grew up in southwestern Michigan and was taken through celery fields to a small butcher shop near Decatur, and the butcher made the most delectable liver sausage. It had texture and it had taste (at least to a ten year old palate), and I have pork liver. Any ideas?

Ken Albala said...

Hi Sharon, Very neat blog by the way. I was very taken by Vermont while there a few weeks ago.

As for liver, I've never tried it, but my guess is that it's a mix of liver and lean pork and fat, mixed coarsely so it has a bite. Not like Braunschweiger which is all liver and spreadable. Delicious, but not the same thing I think you're looking for.

I've been looking closely at some 16th Italian sausage recipes, and many of them do contain just some liver. Maybe I'll translate and post one.

dinner jackets said...

Dead meat?